We use premium, top quality materials that are made to last on even the most rugged dogs.
I use top of the line fleece in the highest grade, it is pill resistant, water resistant, and ultra durable. The fleece is over such a small area of the dog that it's temperature neutral, no worries about your dog overheating because of fleece. This fleece also does not burn, it will simply melt, making it ultra safe! If your dog happens to run through mud the mud will dry and then crumble right off the fleece. If your dog goes swimming with a fleece item, the fleece will soak in the water (all fleece will, even Polartec or the other "waterproof" brands, I've tested them) but it will not chafe your dog at all! I like to let my Tamaskan Dog take a swim in his harnesses and collars to allow some water to soak up, then he stays a bit cooler during our longer hikes with the fleece being damp. The fleece does not hold heat, however.
I use quality made, polypropylene webbing. This webbing is waterproof, mould-proof, color-fast, and won't warp. Something that nylon is guilty of. Nylon will warp badly and absorb water and mud, causing it to mould. Nylon that's thin and strong also tends to have sharp edges, whereas poly doesn't at all. The webbing also has a softer weave making it very comfortable for the dog. I do not use cheap poly webbing like many collar makers, although it's easier to sew and MUCH cheaper, I find my webbing to be hardier and much friendlier on dog's necks.
Thread / stitching
You'll often find companies bragging about their harnesses' breaking strength of the webbing. I find this a bit silly since it's the stitching strength that's important. My stitching is done with ultra strong thread sewn 3-4 times in a bar tack configuration. I use super strong thread that's meant for sewing couches and coats, as well as leather items like saddles. These combos create "welds" in the webbing that will hold back even the strongest pullers. I use triple ply nylon thread that's bonded to create thread that I literally can not break by hand. I only use sew all thread to sew ribbon on, but all items are assembled using the strong nylon thread.
Hardware and buckles
I use nickel plated steel hardware for extreme strength but still lightweight. The rings and slides are all very durable and can resist thousands of pounds of force.
The buckles are super-strong plastic made especially for heavy duty jobs. These are not craft store buckles. The plastic will also resist rust and wear making them practical for harnesses. Furthermore they are contoured in a gentle curve to mould to your dog's body.
I NEVER use bolt snaps for 1" and 3/4" (what you usually see on leads) as they are easy to break. The bolt snaps are fine for 1/2" leashes as they are much lighter for the littler polardogs. Most dog apparel stores will use bolt snaps as they are much cheaper. Trigger snaps are double the price (I pay) for a good reason: they are safe! My Tamaskan Dog, Wylie, has broken 13 bronze snaps of the highest quality, and has yet to even slightly damage a trigger snap. Enough said I think!
I use reflectors that are super durable and very bright. They also hold permanent marker very well so you'll notice a size marking on each harness, making finding a size quick and easy. You can even write a dog's name on the reflectors for a bleed-proof way of identifying who's harness belongs to whom. Reflectors are located on each side of the neckpiece and on the backplate, making your dogs visible from every angle. They are silver in daylight and glow bright white when light hits them.
Most of the ribbon I purchase is Jacquard / Woven. It's very high quality! The glitter ribbon is actually tiny poly strips that are woven into the ribbon, similar to a carpet, that doesn't shed everywhere and won't wear out like average glitter will.